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Bangli is an hour’s drive (40 km) northeast of Denpasar. An offshoot of the early Gelgel dynasty, the ancient kingdom of Bangli became Bali’s most powerful upland court in the second half of the 19th century.
Bangli today is perhaps the quietest and most easygoing of all the regency capitals. Travelers use for lying on the slopes of Gunung Batur, Bangli has one of the most temperate climates on Bali. The town is still the subject of fierce barbs, and the Balinese look at you askance when you say you’re going to Bangli.
Pura Kehen
Eight royal ‘puri’ were once situated around the main crossroads of town, but now only Puri Denpasar (the present Artha Sastra Inn) is open to the publicAs the original palace of Bangli’s last raja note the sculptures of lions and bodhisattvas inspired by early photographs of Borobudur, and the remarkable painted mural and frieze in the ‘bale loji’ depicting Chinese life in Bangli. The mural is in bad shape but you can still make out detail. Also worth seeing is the 100-year-old ‘bale kulkul’, about a five-minute walk.
Pura Kehen, thousands visit this lovely old terraced temple, 1.5 km northeast of the town center-the largest and most sacred temple in the regency. It has the appearance of a full-scale ‘wayang’ performance in the middle of a breathtaking rice paddy. Brave the usual crush of vendors, some very aggressive (children accost tourists with flowers, asking for money). In the early 11th century by Sri Brahma Kemuti Ketu as a state temple. Kehen is derived from the word kuren, meaning “household” or “hearth”; the temple is under the protection of Brahma, the Lord of Fire.
Like Besakih, Pura Kehen was built on eight terraces on the southern slope of the hill. Each of the three main terraces is connected to the one above by a flight of stairs. Jabaan, jaba tengah, jeroan.
Events
At night, this temple anniversary is also celebrated with the sacred Rejang dance. Even bigger than the state temple’s ‘odalan’ is Bangli’s ‘ngusaba’ ceremony. Unusual dance forms practiced in the Bangli area include Baris Presi (eight men with leather shields), Baris Dadap (men with shields made of dadap wood), and Baris Jojor (eight men in line with spears).
The main event is market day, when you’ll see products like sweet potatoes, peanuts, and spices not found in the south. Dances and ‘wayang kulit’ are sometimes staged in the town’s ‘bale banjar’ every ‘hari raya’, but not with the lavishness or regularity of Gianyar. A resident ‘dalang’, Dewa Made Rai Mesi, lives just 700 meters from the Artha Sastra Inn.
Accommodations
The Artha Sastra Inn, an original raja’s palace, has seen better days. Still, the potted plants and palace court architecture gives this place a unique feel. You can sleep in the bed of the last king of Bangli and participate in the ritual life of a triwangsa family. The Inn is ideally located in the center of Bangli near the bus station-traffic noise from this busy intersection can be bothersome.
Slightly less run-down are the five larger rooms in the interior of the ‘puri’, with inside ‘mandi’. These are adapted from traditional Balinese bale and feature ancient carved doors and antique furniture.
The ‘pasar malam’ to the east of the bus station serves cheap, delicious meals: ‘cap cay goreng’ with rice, ‘ayam goreng’ with vegetables. Or dine at several ‘warung makanan kecil’ around the bus station; get there early, as they stay open no later than 2100.
Services
You’ll find many shops in the local market south of the Artha Sastra Inn where you can buy the necessities of life. Change cash but not traveler’s checks at Bank Pembangunan Daerah (open 0730-1400) by the Trimurti statue, or use a bank in Gianyar, 13 km by ‘bemo’ to the southwest. There’s a pay telephone in front of the Artha Sastra Inn, or go to the 24-hour Wartel (telecommunication service).
Getting There and Away
Take blue public ‘bemo’ from Denpasar’s Terminal Kereneng (40 km). You can also take ‘bemo’ from the town of Gianyar (13 km) or from Kintamani. If coming from Klungkung (19 km), you may have to change ‘bemo’ in Peteluan or simply board a Singaraja-bound ‘bemo’ and get off in Bangli. Magnificent views on the way up.
From the ‘bemo’/bus station opposite the Artha Sastra Inn in Bangli, get rides to Gianyar (13 km), Penelokan (26 km north), Kintamani (33 km), Tampaksiring (22 km) and Denpasar’s Batubulan Station (40 km).
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